Got a credit card? use our Credit Card & Finance Calculators
Thanks to eyeball08,Wondergirly,bofh,johnstevens77,Bhoddhisatva, for Donating to support the site
Plasterboard problem
-
- Posts: 35
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 4:50 pm
Plasterboard problem
Hi, more advice needed please.
We've had to patch in some plasterboard to fill a hole in a stud wall but some of the edges of the plasterboard patch are proud of the wall by a few mm in places. Can anyone recommend a way of flattening them down before the wall is skimmed?
TIA
Doone
We've had to patch in some plasterboard to fill a hole in a stud wall but some of the edges of the plasterboard patch are proud of the wall by a few mm in places. Can anyone recommend a way of flattening them down before the wall is skimmed?
TIA
Doone
-
- Lemon Half
- Posts: 8946
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 9:06 am
- Has thanked: 1313 times
- Been thanked: 3688 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
How much is a few mm and over what area.
A couple of bits 3mm proud might give the plasterer scope to ignore but 7mm over a larger distance might not.
I think you would have to take the advice of your plasterer on this and reboard the hole if he says.
John
A couple of bits 3mm proud might give the plasterer scope to ignore but 7mm over a larger distance might not.
I think you would have to take the advice of your plasterer on this and reboard the hole if he says.
John
-
- Posts: 35
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 4:50 pm
Re: Plasterboard problem
redsturgeon wrote:I think you would have to take the advice of your plasterer on this and reboard the hole if he says.
Hi Redsturgeon
The problem we have is that there is not the depth in the framework of the stud wall to allow it to be set in any deeper. (old house) would it be feasible to shave off the edges of the plasterboard that are a bit proud? It is probably no more than 3mm and only in places.
Thanks
Doone
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 1040
- Joined: November 5th, 2016, 12:26 pm
- Has thanked: 215 times
- Been thanked: 205 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
I'm having difficulty imagining how there wouldn't be enough depth to sink the plasterboard below the surrounding surface and get the plasterer to bring it up flush - usual thickness is only 1/2" (12.5mm) unless the wall is plastered brickwork say. If the bare brickwork or whatever is closer than the thickness of a plasterboard sheet the plasterer shouldn't have any difficulty in doing without the board anyway. If it helps you can usually find thinner plasterboard at 3/8" (9.5mm).
-
- Lemon Half
- Posts: 8946
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 9:06 am
- Has thanked: 1313 times
- Been thanked: 3688 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
I think if you talk to your plasterer he may be able to feather it in.
Plasterboard does not really take too well to trying to sand it down and shaving the edges does really achieve anything that the plasterer could do by just leaving a slightly thicker skim up to the plaster board.
John
Plasterboard does not really take too well to trying to sand it down and shaving the edges does really achieve anything that the plasterer could do by just leaving a slightly thicker skim up to the plaster board.
John
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 2081
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 11:53 am
- Has thanked: 3203 times
- Been thanked: 417 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
have you considered pine cladding ?
i have used it extensively to cover poorly plastered walls .
i simply nail it on to the existing plaster - no battens .
quite simple and it works for us , and adds a bit more thermal insulation also .
i have used it extensively to cover poorly plastered walls .
i simply nail it on to the existing plaster - no battens .
quite simple and it works for us , and adds a bit more thermal insulation also .
-
- Lemon Quarter
- Posts: 4826
- Joined: November 4th, 2016, 2:24 pm
- Has thanked: 4852 times
- Been thanked: 2112 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
There are also thinner sheets of plasterboard available. Could you perhaps redo the patch with 9mm thick board?
Regards,
Chris
Regards,
Chris
Re: Plasterboard problem
Even a few mill will be very obvious even to the untrained eye!
Where the old and new plaster join, you should cover the joint with "scrim tape" to ensure the 2 parts are properly joined or small cracks will open over time.
As other's have said, sounds like you need thinner plasterboard (just avoid the "feather edge" if its a butt-joint to the existing). The 9.5mm stuff is designed to be compatible with older buildings (the old lath & plaster tended to be thinner).
if you're really pushed there's a 6mm floor board, which might work better
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquapanel ... m/p/163611
Cheers
C
Where the old and new plaster join, you should cover the joint with "scrim tape" to ensure the 2 parts are properly joined or small cracks will open over time.
As other's have said, sounds like you need thinner plasterboard (just avoid the "feather edge" if its a butt-joint to the existing). The 9.5mm stuff is designed to be compatible with older buildings (the old lath & plaster tended to be thinner).
if you're really pushed there's a 6mm floor board, which might work better
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquapanel ... m/p/163611
Cheers
C
-
- Lemon Pip
- Posts: 83
- Joined: November 7th, 2016, 8:54 am
- Has thanked: 11 times
- Been thanked: 27 times
Re: Plasterboard problem
I've always found the old lath and plaster to be thicker than 12mm plasterboard!
In my current house we replaced a ceiling recently and there was a 5mm plus gap on all the walls after fitting 12mm board inferring the total depth of 17mm including laths.
Perhaps the problem is the laths are still in place?
In my current house we replaced a ceiling recently and there was a 5mm plus gap on all the walls after fitting 12mm board inferring the total depth of 17mm including laths.
Perhaps the problem is the laths are still in place?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests