Door hinge problem

[NomoneyNohoney]

On an internal door, it started to struggle to open over a newly laid carpet. I decided to fit rising butt hinges to overcome the problem, but it's not working out.

The rising butt hinges are - maybe -250mm wide each side , while the old standard hinges are -maybe- 200mm wide each side. So, I made the rebate a bit bigger, fitted my hinges to door and frame, and then found that when the door shuts, it's bashing on the edge that it closes towards, where the door latch striker plate is.

I think I can see the problem. The old standard hinges open and close flat, so when the door is shut the two bits of hinge press against each other.
When I try to replicate this with the rising butt hinges, the two flat plates are maybe 50mm apart when parallel, and that's why my door is banging on the striker plate side of the framing.

is this normal? Do all rising butt hinges need sinking deep into the door frame, to compensate for their slightly extra width? or is there something else I've overlooked / not thought of?

[csearle]

50mm

!?!

I just read something here about rising butt hinges and it says...

...the recessing should be equal on both the edge of the door and the frame.

Might be worth bearing in mind.

Regards,
Chris

[jfgw]

is this normal? Do all rising butt hinges need sinking deep into the door frame, to compensate for their slightly extra width?

Your ones do! Probably most do as the hinge pin needs to be thicker (for strength) so the hinge overall will be thicker. Whenever you replace hinges, you can expect to either have to chisel out or pack out to allow for the different thickness. With rising butts, you may also need to plane a bit off of the top of the door, hinge side, opposite face to the hinge pin so that the door still clears the frame as it opens and rises.

A plug cutter can be useful when replacing hinges if the new screw holes are slightly different from the old ones. You can drill out the old holes and glue in some plugs with PVA.

Julian F. G. W.