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NC500

place to discuss doing things round and about the UK or to ask advice about other locations
Dod101
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Re: NC500

#508490

Postby Dod101 » June 20th, 2022, 3:42 pm

Snorvey wrote:I would cut off the whole JoG / Thurso corner if it was me. it's a much shorter route, but last time I was up there, I turned off to the Lairg / Tongue road.

Its far more pretty.

Ok, it's not 'NC500' but you'll have far more time to pull in and take the time to enjoy some pretty decent scenery.

[Edit] Loads of single track on that road. The only thing to watch out for is suicidal deer and maniac postie vans.


I agree. That is a very attractive road and not so busy either. I go to the the north east corner because I have relatives there, not there for the sights. It is pretty bleak anyway unless it is a day like today but of course those driving round the NC500 presumably want to see John O' Groats.

Dod

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Re: NC500

#510785

Postby scotia » June 29th, 2022, 11:00 pm

I don't think a group of cars travelling together round the NC500 is a good idea. Much of it is single track road with passing places - totally unsuited for a convoy of nose to tail driving. If you want to see that part of the country, do it by yourself. Alternatively - at least let each participant start out at a staggered time. And make sure you are competent at reversing on a narrow twisty road - because you are likely to find other drivers (e.g. in Motorhomes), coming in the opposite direction, who are incapable of reversing. And try to avoid getting another driver on your tail, because you may find yourself (as I have) with vehicles approaching in front, and a vehicle close behind - neither of which could apparently reverse.
There is no guarantee of fair weather at any time, but September is getting on in the season - so remember to pack up your wet and cold weather gear.
Take your time - and explore. I'm most familiar with the east and north coasts, and the west coast down to Ullapool, but I have travelled over the other sections.
A few things I like to do. From Inverness, proceed over the bridge and onto the Black Isle, and visit Chanonry point to hopefully see the Dolphins. Continuing up the East coast, passing Dornoch you should see the controversial statue of the Duke of Sutherland on Ben Bhraggie, and further up his abode at Dunrobin castle, built in the form of a French Chateau. Its well worth a visit. Continuing north, via the (much improved) Berriedale Braes, there are a number of small villages with harbours - Lybster is my favourite. I'm not so keen on the vast array of Wind Turbines recently built just off the coast. Wick (my wife's birthplace) now has a busy harbour servicing the Windfarm, and it contains a large (and busy) marina for yachts. The main fishing port is now at Scrabster. The Wick harbour is surrounded by posters showing past days when you could walk from one side of the harbour to the other on the decks of fishing boats. There is also an interesting museum. Down near the harbour we like to eat at Bord de l'eau. The wife (front of house) is a Wicker, her husband (the cook) is French.
Don't miss out the John O'Groats corner. From the harbour you can take a day trip to Orkney, or take a shorter nature cruise, although in September the sea birds will have departed from the cliffs. The Castle of Mey is worth a visit - particularly the walled garden which is impressive, given its northerly position. You can head for the most northerly point at Dunnet Head, and the 2 mile long sandy beach of Dunnet Bay. On its far side is a harbour which exported Caithness flagstones all around the world ( until concrete slabs took over). We have stayed several times in the John O'Groats Hotel and its associated Lodges, and have been pleased with the accommodation.
Further west lies Thurso - and if any of your companions are keen surfers, then they will know that "Thurso-East is probably the most perfect right-hand breaking wave in Europe". Further west we have previously stayed (and dined) in the Forss House Hotel which we also enjoyed. From that point westward, the population density is low, and although hotels exist, we never seem to have discovered one that we really liked. There are numerous beautiful sandy beaches - often with nobody but yourself for company - e.g. at the Kyle of Tongue. Further west there is Loch Eribol (or called Loch 'orribol by the Navy seamen stationed here in WW2). There's a plan to setup a space port nearby. Then onto the village of Durness. You may wish to take the trip out to Cape Wrath - by boat and mini-bus along a rough track. Now travelling south, there is little population on the road, but you can divert out to Kinlochbervie, which is/was a very busy fishing port. The beach (near Kinlochbervie) at Oldshoremore is particularly attractive, especially when the surrounding machair is in bloom.
Continuing south you will reach the Kylesku Bridge - which has been described as one of the most beautiful bridges in the world (I agree!). The Kylesku Hotel has undergone a major upgrade and is now one of our favourite eating places in that area. From Kylesku to Lochinver, you can take the narrow, twisty, hilly route passing through Drumbeg, Clashnessie, Stoer and Clachtoll. You need to divert seaward to Achmelvich bay - but its worth the effort.
Finally - on to Lochinver, where I'll leave someone else to describe the remainder of the route. When discussing eating in Lochinver, often the Pie place is mentioned. Its fine - but there are several other good eating places. There used to be a Chez Roux at the Inver Lodge Hotel, but on our last visit it had been replaced with new management - although the replacement was still pretty good. For those with deep wallets, a stay at the Inver Lodge may provide a touch of luxury.

Dod101
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Re: NC500

#510801

Postby Dod101 » June 30th, 2022, 7:18 am

Excellent travel guide. I am familiar with it all and could write about Ullapool south and back to Inverness but it contains a lot of places that I prefer to have more or less to myself so I will not except to say that just south of Gairloch a visit to the Inn at Badachro is very much worthwhile for fresh seafood for lunch or dinner. Of the entire trip, Wester Ross, which is the bit I am not writing about is my favourite area.

Despite what Scotia says, John O'Groats is horrible in itself and is not a place where you want to spend much time.

Dod

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Re: NC500

#530478

Postby pje16 » September 17th, 2022, 7:42 pm

scotia wrote:

Thank you so much for an excellent write-up
There are just 2 of us going now, starting off from Inverness on Monday 26th
We are both experienced drivers and will be careful on the tighter roads
I am driving up from London on Saturday, staying IN Carlisle overnight and meeting my friend (from Manchester) in Inverness where we stay on Sunday
We have plotted our rules and have taken in many of your suggestions
Thank you too to Dod and Snorvey
I am really looking forward to 7 days seeing the marvellous landscape

Dod101
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Re: NC500

#530488

Postby Dod101 » September 17th, 2022, 9:14 pm

Snorvey wrote:I drove Britains most scenic route (or 85% of it*) a few days ago in less than 12 hours.

In the dark. :D

*believe it or not, I took a wrong turn....

It was epic.

I ran around the JoG/lands end sign alone, saw Dounraey at night, drove through the thickest fog and the heaviest hailstorms on singlectack roads, had a full herd of deer with stags run alongside me, sniggered at 'Bonar Bridge' at silly o'clock in the morning. And, about 20 miles after JoG encountered only 4 (yes FOUR) vehicles going either way for the next 100 miles. Loads of campervans parked up all over the place though.

I made it back to Inverness for a double shot coffee at 6.00am

Have fun.


Why?

Dod

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Re: NC500

#530501

Postby scotia » September 17th, 2022, 11:35 pm

pje16 wrote:I am really looking forward to 7 days seeing the marvellous landscape

I wish you well. I first drove much of that road about 40 years ago, with our two young children, from their grandparents in Wick to our summer holiday in Ullapool, then back home to Central Scotland via Loch Ewe on the west coast - and this was repeated for many years. In those days the North Coast road had very little traffic - changed days!
The weather forecast looks reasonable - not too much rain, modest winds, and daytime temperatures peaking around 13C. Sunburn shouldn't be a problem. But if you feel a bit on the warm side, try a dip in the surf on one of the many sandy bays. I tried it out (once) about 40 years ago :)
PS - I should mention that it is getting near the end of the tourist season, and restaurant opening hours can be problematic. It's our experience if there are not enough visitors around at lunch time, they may decide not to open in the evening.

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Re: NC500

#530502

Postby scotia » September 18th, 2022, 12:09 am

Snorvey wrote: I like driving in the dark. Especially in rural Scotland.

Going back 40 years, we regularly travelled, with our young children, on the A9 from Central Scotland to Caithness. There were no dual carriageways, no bypasses, and no Kessock, Cromarty and Dornoch bridges. There were long convoys of vehicles, with little opportunity to pass, and you were lucky if you averaged much more than 30mph (over 300 miles). So we took to driving at night. The kids dropped off to sleep (and I tried to stay awake). Progress was much faster, and driving much more pleasant. There was a problem in finding petrol - a full tank couldn't quite make it. I remember using a petrol station in Carrbridge which had (unmanned) pumps which accepted 50p pieces (petrol was cheaper in those days). In midsummer there was partial light for much of the time - and yes - we usually came across Deer wandering at the sides of the roads.
But with all of the road improvements, and no young kids, we are back to daytime driving. :)

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Re: NC500

#530514

Postby Dod101 » September 18th, 2022, 7:30 am

Just to continue the Scottish reminiscences, I was first in Caithness as a lad of about 9/10 I should think, my father driving the family up to a farm near Dunnet Head where we stayed with a cousin of my father's, whilst we visited some of his many cousins in the area. That was done in a pre war Austin 10. I do not know how he did it when you consider that the route must have been a deal longer than it is today without all the causeways and flyovers they have now. Of course there was much less traffic then, really just post war with petrol rationing still in force. We left home about 7.30 am and ground our way north.

Anyway all change in the roads nowadays even if the Scottish Government seems to be making no progress in dualling the A9 between Perth and Inverness. I hope pje has a good trip, takes his time and enjoys the experience. I may well be up to the Castle of Mey next month to see the last of the second cousins that I know of in the area.

Dod

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Re: NC500

#530516

Postby pje16 » September 18th, 2022, 7:47 am

Dod101 wrote:I do not know how he did it when you consider that the route must have been a deal longer than it is today without all the causeways and flyovers they have now. Of course there was much less traffic then, really just post war with petrol rationing still in force.
Dod

Not quite as far back as that, but in the mid 60s my Dad used to drive us (mum, brother and me) from London to Lennoxtown (about 12 miles north of Glasgow), no motorways back then, the A1 used to go through all the towns in middle England, and it used to take around 13 hours.
As you said next, to no traffic, we used to leave early evening and go through the night (exciting when you are young lads)
Today you can do it in just over 6.
Those trips leave lasting memories.

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Re: NC500

#530559

Postby scotia » September 18th, 2022, 12:31 pm

pje16 wrote:
Dod101 wrote:I do not know how he did it when you consider that the route must have been a deal longer than it is today without all the causeways and flyovers they have now. Of course there was much less traffic then, really just post war with petrol rationing still in force.
Dod

Not quite as far back as that, but in the mid 60s my Dad used to drive us (mum, brother and me) from London to Lennoxtown (about 12 miles north of Glasgow), no motorways back then, the A1 used to go through all the towns in middle England, and it used to take around 13 hours.
As you said next, to no traffic, we used to leave early evening and go through the night (exciting when you are young lads)
Today you can do it in just over 6.
Those trips leave lasting memories.

Its a small world. I cycled through Lennoxtown on Friday. The old railway line which ran from Kirkintilloch to Lennoxtown, (and ultimately to Aberfoyle) is part of the John Muir and Thomas Muir trails. Some years ago, it was tar-macadamed, but eventually tree roots turned it into a rather bumpy experience. So this summer it was resurfaced, and I was out for my first trial on Friday. Its great - but the next section from Lennoxtown to Strathblane needs the same attention.

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Re: NC500

#530565

Postby pje16 » September 18th, 2022, 12:55 pm

scotia wrote:Its a small world. I cycled through Lennoxtown on Friday. The old railway line which ran from Kirkintilloch to Lennoxtown, (and ultimately to Aberfoyle) is part of the John Muir and Thomas Muir trails. Some years ago, it was tar-macadamed, but eventually tree roots turned it into a rather bumpy experience. So this summer it was resurfaced, and I was out for my first trial on Friday. Its great - but the next section from Lennoxtown to Strathblane needs the same attention.

Small word indeed, Lennoxtown is where my mum grew up, her sister died in January this year, so I drove up to Wishaw for the funeral and had the pleasure of seeing my cousin for the first time in 36 years
We both remembered playing in Holyknowe Road as kids, so I took her back there and we wandered through the town that neither of us had seen for decades, the Church was as we remembered, and several family members are interred in the adjacent cemetery, so we went and paid our respects.
It is strange how places seem much smaller as an adult to when you were a kid.


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