Cannon Cambridge Cooker Front Panel

[pochisoldi]

I have a Cannon Cambridge Cooker (10287G MK2) which looks like this: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/used ... 37_614.jpg

I need to get the front control panel off so I can see if I can get the buttons on the timer to work.

The panel I'm talking about is the glass one which has the control knobs and the clock/timer on it.

It has two end "cheeks" which are each secured with a single screw to the side.
The bottom metal trim part is held by 4 screws accessible from underneath with the upper oven door open.

It looks as if I need to drop the panel down slightly so it falls out of the top edge, or remove the top of the cooker to free the panel.
However there's nowhere to drop the panel down, and the top of the cooker looks like you need to remove the front panel first before you can remove it.

Anybody got any ideas?

Note:
Yes it is a gas cooker, but as there's no need to interfere with any gas piping or controls, there's no gas safe angle to this task...

PochiSoldi

[DrFfybes]

The knobs should all just pull off, as do the button covers (you need to prise them off with a flat blade screwdriver - protect the front panel with cloth).

Check the order you remove them - you might find the apparently identical knobs are different later on.

However if the buttons are sticking I would suggest a toothbrush and detergent around each one first. Often the problem is gunk underneath not allowing them to press properly,or sticking in.

I'm not convinced the 'cheeks' will need removing, the panel might slide out of the bottom once the trip is removed, but you will know that once the knobs are off. There may also be hidden screws below the knobs.

Paul

[pochisoldi]

The knobs should all just pull off, as do the button covers (you need to prise them off with a flat blade screwdriver - protect the front panel with cloth).

Check the order you remove them - you might find the apparently identical knobs are different later on.

However if the buttons are sticking I would suggest a toothbrush and detergent around each one first. Often the problem is gunk underneath not allowing them to press properly,or sticking in.

I'm not convinced the 'cheeks' will need removing, the panel might slide out of the bottom once the trip is removed, but you will know that once the knobs are off. There may also be hidden screws below the knobs.

Paul

Cleaning the buttons has no effect - the problem is with the remote control style keypad contained within the plastic box which holds the timer unit.

The knobs and buttons were removed. The gas controls are attached to the "chassis" underneath, no exposed screws or nuts - not sure about the clock timer which looks like this:
https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys75 ... 24982.aspx

The end cheeks do need removing - if you don't remove them then the front panel does not move at all.

Each button has a long shaft which pushes into a hole in plastic box which is mounted behind the panel.
The buttons press into a rubber mat (like a remote control) sandwiched between the timer PCB and the plastic case.
I need to remove the timer unit to remove any gunk which has collected on the button side of the rubber membrane, and to clean the conductive pads on the PCB and the carbon pads on the PCB side of the rubber membrane.

The finger of suspicion is pointed at deposits on the PCB contacts caused by oils in the membrane leaching out - seen it many times on my own and family's remote controls, so l already have the t-shirt, just need to get the front panel off and get

The thing that brasses me off about this is the complete dearth of exploded diagrams, or manufacturers parts lists, never mind "this is how I did it you tube videos".
If I had a 20 year old Hotpoint washing machine, or a 30 year old gas boiler, the diagrams are sprinkled over the spares sites.
For a gas cooker, you get to find out what jets to fit to convert it to LPG, what the power output of each burner is, pressure test point location, and that's yer lot.

The only option (other than saying soddit) I can see is to completely pull the cooker out (disconnect bayonet fitting), release security chain, remove the side panels see if that allows me to release the hob top. I don't want to do this - despite the disconnection/reconnection of a self sealing bayonet connector "not deemed to be gas work" (Gas Safe TB025), the problems start when you don't have leak detection fluid/a gas detector/manometer in your tool kit, and you want to be certain there are no leaks, or when the undisturbed for 10yrs+ "self sealing connector" doesn't self seal...

PochiSoldi

[vanWin]

Hello

Can I ask if you ever resolved the problem with front panel removal on your cooker, and if so how?

I have the same problem in wanting to get to the timer module, and have found just as you did, that there is nothing on the net regarding this.

Thank you

[bungeejumper]

Just a thought. Cannons are part of the Hotpoint group, and manufacturers often share the same chassis across several brands. (As we discovered recently when we found our expensive AEG was a jumped-up Zanussi.) Googling for images or diagrams is often an effective way of figuring out which other models look more or less like yours, and with average luck you can get to what you want.

I'd also be keen to find out how Pochisoldi got on with this one. On the few occasions when I've dismantled cooker fronts, it's often turned out that a deep-down layer of thick black cooking gunk is responsible for creating the stiction. Not that amateurs are usually welcome into these delicate areas. The (electric) oven temp control on our old dual-fuel Britannia would have cost us upwards of £120, because it incorporated the electronics part of the failed thermostat. All in all, it was our cue to scrap the cooker.

BJ

[pochisoldi]

Hello

Can I ask if you ever resolved the problem with front panel removal on your cooker, and if so how?

I have the same problem in wanting to get to the timer module, and have found just as you did, that there is nothing on the net regarding this.

Thank you

Never managed to resolve it.

Current status is the timer is stuck in Auto mode ("Auto" flashing and since the buttons are knackered can't switch to manual), therefore the lower (big) oven is inoperable. (The timer module controls a relay which operates a solenoid valve in series with the main oven regulator. If I could get inside, I could bridge out the relay and clean the buttons so that I can get the countdown timer to work. In the meantime, I just use the upper oven, and an timer app on my phone).

The cooker is ancient, neither oven ever got fully up to temperature (verified with a thermocouple thermometer), and the only thing stopping the thing going for scrap is that (a) the whole kitchen needs a refurb and (b) it stops me eating pizza once a week.

PochiSoldi

[vanWin]

Thank you for your reply. It doesn't look very promising, the problem I have is that the 4 digit time is now a 3 digit timer with the first digit not showing and the upper segment of the remaining digits is also expired. I was hoping that with a contact clean up it might be brought up to spec, but....

[hairykiwi]

pochisoldi,

Until I discovered your post, I'd been putting off solving the runaway timer on our Cannon Henly - the glass fascia of which is virtually identical to your Cambridge model; thanks for the prod

If a mod can edit this post to properly include the image links (below), be my guest; I'm too new here and doubt I'll be contributing enough for my links to ever be acceptable :/

Where you say:

drop the panel down slightly so it falls out of the top edge

You are almost correct. Having now removed our cooker's fascia twice, it appears to be designed as a light interference fit - similar to that of a tyre on a wheel rim (see image below).

The first 4 instructions I found at the link below by @BrennDav were also helpful. The rest of the instructions less so, as they involve breaking tabs on the clock/timer - which is completely unnecessary:
4cannon.co.uk/digital-oven-timer/product.pl?pid=972836

As for your particular issue, you might want to try re-soldering some of the display pins after opening the clock/timer; I had to re-solder the high power voltage dropping resistors as their solder joints were 'slightly wobbly' dry joints - never a good thing, but not surprising after 20 years given the operating environment.

Diassembly:
1. Prep:
a. Turn off the oven at the wall - or at the RCD in your house consumer unit.
b. remove all knobs and push buttons: they all pull off, but can be very tight.
2. Pull cooker out about 4 inches/100mm to remove the one screw each side (at bench top height) retaining the fascia cheeks.
3. Under the fascia:
a. Remove two screws holding side cheeks to fascia bottom rail (extrusion): this step is possibly not necessary, but as most ageing cookers have a fair amount of internal residue build-up, it's likely to make disassembly that bit easier.
b. Remove two screws under center of fascia.
4. Pull the fascia out horizontally as far as it will go - about 1/4"/6mm.
5. Either:
a. using strong fingers/nails lift the top fascia lip of the cooker over the glass fascia - or better,
b. using some thin material (credit card, etc) about 2 - 3" in from either end in a tyre-lever fashion (I used the end of a 6"/150 mm steel rule during second disassembly/reassembly) - to ease the fascia glass out from under the top metal edge of the cooker at each end as you pull the respective cheek downward (so far as it can) and horizontally out towards you (as viewed stood in front of the cooker). I never felt like I was about to break the glass, but it was a firm fit: take it easy and you should have no problems:
c. N.B. Under the top edge of the fascia glass are a couple of anti-vibration packing pads. Ideally, leave them in place, but be aware they may be knocked out while cleaning prior to reassembly.

dropbox.com/s/yb4cobtx2pnmwuq/Cannon_cooker_fascia_disassembly_reassembly.jpg?dl=1

6. Disconnect the igniter switch wires and clock/timer wires - 6 in total, making a note - or photo - of what goes where.
7. The clock is mounted by 2 screws on a sub frame on the fascia lower rail: remove the screws.
8. To remove the clock/timer from the sub frame: Carefully press on the four (OUTER) tabs on the clock/timer display case as you ease it from the frame.
9. To remove the clock/timer PCB from the display case, gently pull on the relays while pressing on the multiple (INNER) barbs retaining the PCB in the case.

The fault with our cooker was a run-away timer, which turned out to be due to the carbon from the conductive rubber keypad 'pill' having transferred to the clock/timer PCB and this caused a permanent short circuit, which would conduct any time the 'Minute Minder' button was depressed. Perhaps this is due to the elevated operating temperature the key pad has to endure, compared to the same tech used in ultra long-lasting calculator keypads, for example.

10. The fix: remove the conductive rubber keypad and 'robustly clean' ALL the carbon PCB contacts with an eraser - I used a Staedtler Mars plastic - available at all good stationers Just be careful where you hold the PCB while rubbing - those power resistors leads are tall and very delicate. - inspect the PCB for any dry joints (these are spoted by dull and grainy solder around pins - where the the pin may already be loose vs bright and shiny secure joints. Dry joints are high resistance joints and are often a precursor to intermittent circuit failure.) The pic below shows the the PCB after the cleaning the right most contact, which looked as dirty with carbon as the left-most one:

dropbox.com/s/ai5718qud0h677x/Cannon_cooker_clock_timer_contact_clean_up.jpg?dl=1

11. Put the clock/timer to one side and degrease everything else before reassemble - our cooker went back together so much easier after cleaning. - The ignition switch can be removed from the fascia by removing the switch from the actuator. A second pair of hands may be handy, as you'll need to pull up (rearward, in normal orientation) on the switch while depressing four(!) barbs on the actuator. The actuator can then be removed from the fascia by squeezing the wing tabs while wobbling the actuator body out the front of the fascia: DON'T turn it as there's an anti-rotation slot that you'll wreck unnecessarily.

Reassembly is essentially the reverse process of disassembly:
- I found it easier to handle everything by LOOSELY attaching the cheeks to the lower rail by its respective screw.
- Remember to check the the two anti-vibration pads under the top edge of the fascia glass haven't fallen out.
- Assemble the fascia cheek 'prongs' in their side rail extrusions until the fascia contacts the top lip.
- check the UNDERSIDE of the cheeks CONTAINS the outer corner of the protruding oven vent flange - which ultimately screws to the fascia lower rail. It's easy to assemble these corners outside/beneath each cheek, but they MUST be INSIDE each cheek to permit assembling the two underside center screws.



Good luck, have fun and thanks again for the nudge I needed to get another 5 min job ticked off the list

hairykiwi