Leaking widow frame

[Novoiceleft]

I have a circular (about 800mm dia.) wooden window that has weathered so badly at the bottom (6 o'clock position) that water is coming through to the inside when it rains. It may also be that the double glazing seal has failed at that point.

Its on the second floor. Scaffolding would be expensive. You can get there with a ladder - the gutter guys went up that high. Ultimately I'm going to have to get a replacement window installed in the spring.

For now, I think I need to bodge something.

Does anyone have any ideas? Is there a product that I can paint over the affected wood/ glass seal area that will last the winter ?

The nuclear option is to batten a tarpaulin over it -

Moderator Message:
pejorative adjective removed, please read the rules and follow them

TIA

NoVoice

[richlist]

Clean the joints....glass to frame and frame to wall..... with a stiff brush to remove any loose material. Then apply clear silicon sealer to those joints. Should last the winter.

[Novoiceleft]

Ok thanks

Looking at it from the inside out - I think the wooden frame also has some rot ..

NoVoice

[AsleepInYorkshire]

I have a circular (about 800mm dia.) wooden window that has weathered so badly at the bottom (6 o'clock position) that water is coming through to the inside when it rains. It may also be that the double glazing seal has failed at that point.

Its on the second floor. Scaffolding would be expensive. You can get there with a ladder - the gutter guys went up that high. Ultimately I'm going to have to get a replacement window installed in the spring.

For now, I think I need to bodge something.

Does anyone have any ideas? Is there a product that I can paint over the affected wood/ glass seal area that will last the winter ?

The nuclear option is to batten a tarpaulin over it - but I would prefer to try to avoid the pikey look.

TIA

NoVoice

If the surface is dry you could slap a bit of Flashband on the rotten area. It won't look pretty but if you put enough on it should stop the water ingress. And that stuff really does stick like poo to the sheets. But as I've said it won't look pretty.

Failing which do as richlist suggests

AiY

[bungeejumper]

Commiserations. Leaking widows can be such a worry. Although they tell me that french widows are still as popular as they ever were.

BJ

[modellingman]

Ronseal's wood hardener is brilliant at dealing with rotten wood. My experience is that it really does do what it says on the tin, at least for a temporary repair. Ronseal also do a 2 part wood filler to bulk up the rotted area, though not sure how weather-proof this is if not painted over. Silicon sealant between repaired frame and masonry should seal any gaps until you get professionals to do a proper replacement job in the spring.

[bungeejumper]

+1 for Ronseal's wood hardener, which is great even if you're only using it as a foundation for plastic padding. One complication is that you want to get the wood as dry as possible before you apply it, and this isn't really an ideal time of year for that. I had to replace much of the lower timber of an opening window recently, and it took me an hour or so with a heat gun (on a low setting) to get it dried out so that I could move to stage two.

(Heat guns are a great way to crack window glass, BTW. Careful with that thing!)

I don't recall whether you've said that this is an opening window, or not? Or whether it's white-painted or a natural wood finish? But 25 years of fixing up old windows at Bungee Towers has left me with a sincere appreciation of what can be done with resin fillers, especially on non-opening frames. My own rule of thumb would be that as long as you can't push a screwdriver in more than 15mm, you can probably rescue it.

Not always, of course. Such windows tend to be held together with wooden dowels, and if those areas have rotted you may need to reinforce with long screws or mending plates before you slap on the magic gunk. Of course, if funds permit, you might find it easier to get the whole thing professionally replaced in the new year, but don't give upon the DIY remedies just yet.

Bodger BJ

[sg31]

Car body filler is great for replacing rotton wood. Obviously it depends on the extent of the rot but it's cheap, sets quickly and can be applied in layers.

I'd start off by having a poke it the wood with something like a screwdriver to see if you can determine the extent of the rot. If it is too much, just back off and use flash banding. If it looks do-able scrape out the rotten wood then mix some CBFiller and push it into the hole make sure you spread it so it coats all of the hole. No need to fill it all at this stage, just get it to cover the inside of the hole. In a few minutes it will start to harden, shave off any bits that are proud of the surface with a chisel. Apply more coats till the hole is filled. Because of the short setting time it won't take long. If you keep shaving with a chisel and when you get near the end use sand paper it's possible to get an almost perfect finish.

I've used this technique on windows doors. frames and some of them are still going strong 10 years later.

[bungeejumper]

Car body filler is great for replacing rotton wood. Obviously it depends on the extent of the rot but it's cheap, sets quickly and can be applied in layers.

I've mentioned this before, but my own favourite is https://www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERHOOK-BIG ... 00C9D5T70/. Sets at the usual speed (pretty fast!) but stays easy to sand for quite a while after that. The last time I did it, I used a medium-coarse sanding disc on an electric drill, and the surface was ready to paint right away. A quick touch of primer, a dab of Dulux Weathershield, and I was able to re-hang the window the same day.

Another small trick if you're filling to any depth is to first bang a few nails into the surrounding wood, so as to give the filler a key. Make sure that they're galvanised nails, or they might rust and come back to haunt you.

Ten years? Some of our windows were condemned by our surveyor 25 years ago when we bought Bungee Towers, and they're still picture-perfect to this day!

BJ

[scrumpyjack]

It's usually the bottom few inches and the sill that rot. We have just had some windows with this problem professionally repaired by a local carpenter.

He first hacked out all the rotten stuff, which was a lot! Where it was really bad he put in new pieces of hardwood. The rest he filled with the Ronseal stuff, the sanded it when dry and then painted it wit Sadolin.

Now looks as good as new and will I'm sure last another 30 years

[sg31]

I've mentioned this before, but my own favourite is https://www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERHOOK-BIG ... 00C9D5T70/. Sets at the usual speed (pretty fast!) but stays easy to sand for quite a while after that. The last time I did it, I used a medium-coarse sanding disc on an electric drill, and the surface was ready to paint right away. A quick touch of primer, a dab of Dulux Weathershield, and I was able to re-hang the window the same day.

Another small trick if you're filling to any depth is to first bang a few nails into the surrounding wood, so as to give the filler a key. Make sure that they're galvanised nails, or they might rust and come back to haunt you.

Ten years? Some of our windows were condemned by our surveyor 25 years ago when we bought Bungee Towers, and they're still picture-perfect to this day!

BJ

I just use what is cheapest and available. If the one you use remains toolable for longer that is a good thing. I don't like galvanised nails, I always think hiting them with a hammer cracks the coating. I have used stainless screws for the same purpose.

10 years. I've been using the same technique for 30 years but as a builder you sort of lose touch with old jobs. I used this technique in my parents home, it lasted until they sold the property. I've never had anyone complain that it failed.

With time and patience you can get it so the repair can't be seen but if it's 2 or 3 storeys up it's hardly worth the effort. Ground floor I'd spend the time. The secret, if there is one, is the timing of cutting back and sanding. Leave it too long and it can be a bit harder, at the right time it cuts and sands like a dream.

I know you know all this, I'm just including it for other readers who might find the thread in future.