Tap water looks the same colour as the first row (so 0 on everything and 6.4 for pH.
Fish tank for Nitrate, Nitrite, chlorine and hardness both look like 0. Alkaline, carbonate and pH look darker, but not as dark as 2nd row so Alkaline and carbonate must be somewhere between 0 - 40, and the pH somewhere between 6-8 - 7.2.
That sounds good. Ammonia and Nitrite is the big issue, you can get Ammonia buildup without it turning to Nitrite, so an Ammonia test is IMO a better one. If it is being converted to Nitrite, then the bacteria have established so it willl nearly always then be converted to Nitrate. Check the date as the strips do expire.
It is strange - water testing, Tapsafe additives, CO2 balancers, plant fertilizer, water changes, all these are things i've only encountered in the last 20 years or so, CO2 and fertiliser is something I'd only really been aware of since AiY posted about them.
When I were a lad plants lived in the bottom of the tank and ate fish poo, the stuff that sank because the undergravel filter (powered by a column of rising bubbles in the corner from an airpump!) dragged everything down where it decomposed naurally. OK I did succumb to the fad of the Gro-lux bulb in one of the tanks in the late 1970s, but monitoring anyting but pH and changing water was unheard of unless things went wrong. If we wanted water we filled a bucket and left it overnight for the chlorine to come out.
However back then many of the fish were wild caught, and were much more hardy than the inbred stock we get now. Commercial breeding was not profitable, retails of 20p for a neon tetra, 6 for a quid, and sell your molly/platty/guppy babies back to the petshop for 5p a fish. We even bred Blue Acaras in a 4 foot community tank, with an Oscar and a few Gourami in there, before sucking them out with a hose to put them in a nursery tank.
People kept a couple of goldfish they won at the fair in a 5L bowl and changed the water when it got cloudy. Sometimes.
Now I'm not saying all this is a good thing, animal welfare and knowledge has come on leaps and bounds since then, equipment has improved, and with the internet access to a wider range than that stocked locally has opened a whole world of options. But with this availability and information comes worry, obsession with details, concern that detracts from enjoyment. Rather like that quiet ticking that you sometimes hear in the car but would normally ignore for the 6 years you owned it, now you can look online and find it is a portent of imminent catastrophic engine failure, then pH strips that go to 0.1 units (rather than the old universal paper which was a best estimate) means people agonise over their pH being 6.2 rather than 6.7, or gaze at the Nitrate test squinting to see if the pale pink colour is nearer 25 than 10.
By all means test the water every week or so in a new tank, but if it tests OK, then leave it. An ideal setup is one that self regulates, that needs no maintenance, where the plants use the fish waste, and the fish nibble on the plants. I know AiY won't agree with this, but you don't need to add chemicals or buy fancy lights to help plants grow - they're here for the benefit of the fish, not the other way around, and if they start to fade just pull them up and replace them.
So relax, watch the fish, they're supposed to relax you, not stress you
Paul
https://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets ... t-15-litre). Got some “Tap safe” to remove the chlorine and set it up. 
My bad